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Blumenerde, die deine Pflanzen wirklich versteht Nicht alle Blumenerde sind gleich –...
Alocasia-Wurzeln mögen Luft, gleichmäßige Feuchtigkeit und Wärme zugleich. In der Natur wachsen viele von ihnen in nährstoffreichen, ständig feuchten und gut durchlüfteten Substraten. In Innenräumen bedeutet das eine Blumenerde, die Wasser gleichmäßig speichert, gut abfließt und nie zu Schlamm wird. Dieser Leitfaden ist speziell auf Alocasia zugeschnitten, sodass du deine alocasia-erde sicher anpassen und die auffälligen Blätter schön frisch halten kannst.
Coco coir is a natural fibre made from the husk of coconuts. It’s cleaned, processed, and often compressed into blocks or loose substrates. In soil, it replaces peat and provides a light, airy structure that holds water well while staying breathable.
We recommend it because it:
In many ways, yes:
It’s a light brown, fluffy material that feels a bit like dry mulch or shredded fibre. When wet, it becomes darker and spongy.
Yes. It’s entirely plant-based and safe for all houseplants, provided it’s properly washed and buffered to remove excess salts.
Yes. The main types are:
We use a balanced blend in our SYBASoil products depending on plant type.
Yes. We only use high-quality coir that’s pre-washed and buffered to remove sodium and potassium, making it safe for immediate use.
You can, but we don’t recommend it alone. It lacks nutrients, so it's better mixed with worm castings, perlite, or other ingredients for a balanced blend.
All our SYBASoil mixes use coco coir as the base. You’ll find it in:
Yes. It holds moisture while still allowing air to reach the base of cuttings. You can use it alone or mix with perlite for better drainage. You can read more on our tips regarding plant propagations here.
For most houseplants, yes. We suggest mixing with:
Place the compressed block in a bucket and add warm water. It will expand rapidly. Stir occasionally to loosen clumps and allow it to fully hydrate.
No, we do not recommend doing so, as the coconut coir can act as a sponge holding on too much water in this type of setup. This can cause root rot and mould growth on the coir.
It lasts 3-4 years on average, depending on watering frequency and plant type. It doesn’t degrade or compact as quickly as peat, making it a more stable base.
Yes, but mix it with more mineral content like lava rock or grit to ensure proper drainage, especially in rainy climates.
No, not on its own. It’s clean and sterile when processed correctly. However, overwatering any medium—including coir—can invite fungus gnats.
It’s possible but not ideal. It can dry out quickly and blow away. Use bark, pumice, or decorative gravel instead for top dressing.
You can use coco coir as a terrarium substrate. Mix it with some sphagnum moss and coco husk or orchid bark. You can also get our ready-made terrarium mix.
Very little. It contains trace potassium but no nitrogen or phosphorus. That’s why we always mix it with nutrient sources like worm castings or slow-release fertilisers.
Yes, unless it's part of a full mix, containing nutrients in the form of worm castings for example. Pure coco coir is inert, so you'll need to fertilise regularly to maintain healthy growth.
Typically between 5.5 and 7.0—ideal for most houseplants. It's more neutral than peat, making it a safer choice for a wider range of plants.
Yes. It can absorb up to 8x its weight in water while still allowing air to circulate, which is why it's great for tropical houseplants.
It can if used alone or in pots without drainage. Always mix with aeration materials and use pots with drainage holes.
Much more than peat. It’s a byproduct of the coconut industry, renewable, and doesn’t lead to bog habitat destruction like peat harvesting.
Yes. It breaks down slowly but can be added to compost bins or garden beds to improve soil texture.
Keep it dry in a sealed container or bag. It can absorb moisture from the air if left out, which may lead to mold.
Not easily. But if it stays wet and poorly ventilated, mold can form—just like with any organic material. Keep it dry when storing.
Yes—if it’s clean and free from pests or disease. Rinse, dry, and remix with nutrients before reusing.
It’s not certified organic, but it’s completely natural, untreated, and sourced responsibly. We focus on clean inputs, not synthetic fillers.
Yes, but it requires more frequent nutrient feeding. Coco coir is commonly used in hydroponics, especially when combined with perlite.
We only use clean, pre-washed, buffered coir with a balanced texture. No unwashed blocks or salty, fibrous mixes—just ready-to-use, plant-safe material.
That’s often mineral or salt buildup from fertilisers. Scrape it off and flush your soil with clean water to reset. If it persists, consider mixing in zeolite to help buffer excess salts.
This usually means the coir has been overwatered or stored wet without ventilation. Let the soil dry out and improve airflow. In some cases, repotting is the best solution.
No. Many cheap coco products are unbuffered and can contain high salt levels (sodium and potassium). Always check that your coir is washed and buffered—Sybotanica’s coir is.
Yes, but it’s a process. You’d need to soak it repeatedly and treat it with a calcium or magnesium solution to displace excess sodium. We recommend using pre-buffered coir to save time and avoid mistakes.
Likely causes:
Not by itself, but poor drainage or overwatering in coir-heavy mixes can lead to rot. Always use it with aeration materials, such as perlite or pumice and drainage holes.
Yes. Monstera prefers airy, moisture-retaining soil. Coco coir blended with perlite, bark, and nutrients (like in our aroid mix) is ideal.
Yes—coco coir is excellent for moisture-loving plants like Calatheas, especially when mixed with vermiculite or worm castings to retain humidity.
Only if heavily modified. Coir retains water, which succulents don’t like. Use a small amount (10–15%) and mix with sand, pumice, and lava rock.
Only as a minor component. Orchids prefer chunky, fast-draining mixes. Use coir chips, not pith, and mix with bark, sphagnum moss and pumice for structure.
Yes. Coco coir holds moisture well and suits herbs like basil, parsley, and mint. Use it with Worm castings and perlite for best results.
A good base is:
50/50 coco coir and perlite is an excellent mix for cuttings. It holds moisture without suffocating the roots.
Yes. This works well for aroids, philodendrons, and semi-epiphytic plants. Bark adds structure and keeps the mix airy.
We don’t recommend doing so, in most mineral mixes or semi-hydro set-ups the mix stays consistently wet, which can cause the coir to act like a sponge, causing root rot and can even cause the coir to mold.
Not ideal. It lacks nutrients and structure over time. You'll need consistent fertiliser and aeration materials such as perlite, to improve drainage and prevent compaction.
Yes, especially if that soil is dense or peat-heavy. Adding coco coir will lighten the mix, improve water flow, and extend soil life.
We work with trusted suppliers who produce coir responsibly from Sri Lanka. All our coir is pre-washed, buffered, and consistent in texture.
Watch for:
It means the coir has been treated to remove excess salts (especially sodium and potassium) and balanced with calcium and magnesium. This prevents nutrient lockout and plant stress.
Alocasia-Wurzeln mögen Luft, gleichmäßige Feuchtigkeit und Wärme zugleich. In der Natur wachsen viele von ihnen in nährstoffreichen, ständig feuchten und gut durchlüfteten Substraten. In Innenräumen bedeutet das eine Blumenerde, die...
Alocasia-Wurzeln mögen Luft, gleichmäßige Feuchtigkeit und Wärme zugleich. In der Natur wachsen viele von ihnen in nährstoffreichen, ständig feuchten und gut durchlüfteten Substraten. In Innenräumen bedeutet das eine Blumenerde, die...
Die Wahl des richtigen Substrats für Monstera ist ein großer Gewinn. In der Natur klettern Monsteras auf Bäume, bilden Luftwurzeln und leben in Laubstreu mit viel Luftzirkulation. In Innenräumen gedeihen...
Die Wahl des richtigen Substrats für Monstera ist ein großer Gewinn. In der Natur klettern Monsteras auf Bäume, bilden Luftwurzeln und leben in Laubstreu mit viel Luftzirkulation. In Innenräumen gedeihen...
Orchideenrinde ist eines dieser Materialien, von denen Pflanzenliebhaber oft hören, aber nicht immer wissen, wie oder wann sie es verwenden sollen. Ist es nur für Orchideen geeignet? Kann man es...
Orchideenrinde ist eines dieser Materialien, von denen Pflanzenliebhaber oft hören, aber nicht immer wissen, wie oder wann sie es verwenden sollen. Ist es nur für Orchideen geeignet? Kann man es...
